In general: all parts are shipped with the machine finish as shown in the LISTING PHOTOS. Final finishing is by the Buyer (prop maker) and may include whatever; polishing, graining, distressing, acid washes, electroplating, and other treatments as selected and executed by the Buyer. Most parts will have some cosmetic blemishes that the Buyer may/may-not want to remove or enhance. Thank You.
NEW ITEM & NEW LOW PRICE
Star Trek Metal Lock Plate; AA/DS, Rodd or, similar P2 shells: STOCK-UP WE JUST GOT A BRAND NEW MULTI DIE-SET, WE REDUCED THE PRICE BY OVER 1/2 !! (also can be fitted to Wand or S&W FG Shells)
Real Aluminum Lock Plate, NEW DIE-CUT Mirror Polished Aluminum. Not hard anodized, Not die cast zinc, Not mylar plastic, : ready for installation on your prop project, easy to work with and apply secondary finishes, grain, weathering.
Fit to a slightly modified AA/DS Phaser. Sand the install area LEVEL & FLUSH for best fit.
This P2 Lock Plate is mirror polished DIE-CUT aluminum about 27 ga. Aka 0.014\" thick. SHIPS WITH PROTECTIVE FILM ON POLISHED SURFACE TO PREVENT SCRATCHES WHEN INSTALLING.
Price is each, for one lock plate (NOT FOUR LOCKPLATES, FOUR LOCK-PLATES SHOWN SO YOU CAN SEE ALL SIDES OF THE PART AND CORRESPONDING DIMENSIONS).
Listing Photo Shows All Dimensions BUT remember the part is very thin and can be bent with Ease & Care. No returns after bending.
Compatible: You have to fit it on !! : AA/DS, The Wand Company, Rodd Resin Phasers, Shanko Fiberglass kits, 23rd Century Pistol Kits and, likely fits nearly all others. Made to the standard dimension shown in the listing.
The last four pictures demonstrate one method of fitting this part onto a DS/AA Phaser.
FITTING TO AA/DS (ART ASYLUM AND/OR DIAMOND SELECT PHASERS); YOU MUST TAKE 60 OR 80 GRIT PAPER AND SAND-OFF THE EXISTING \"BUMPED-OUT\" SILVER PAINTED PLASTIC LOCK-PLATE IN ORDER TO INSTALL THIS ONE. THE EXISTING BUMPED-OUT SILVER PAINTED PLASTIC LOCK-PLATE MUST BE SANDED DOWN TILL THIS DROPS INTO PLACE.
Exact Dimensions: Seen in the LISTING photos.
Annealing: Not Required, ships full soft.
Corners: All deburred and polished..
This “real aluminum” is easy to; further mirror polish, drill, cut with scissors, weather, Rolex grain and, do anything else you can come up with, your the prop builder and I say have some fun!.
You get what you see in the photographs, but ask questions anyway…..live long and...ya know!! Installed photos are for reference AND SHOW LOCK-PLATE INSTALLED ON Art Asylum aka a Diamond Select, brand Phaser, no crispy, no Phaser, no LSR 12mm driver nor anything else, just one lock plate in this sale.
CLICK; EXPLODED PHASER LSR 12mm SLIDESHOW; YOUTUBE VIDEO
CLICK; AA/DS PHASER-LSR 12mm HOW-TO; YOUTUBE VIDEO
CLICK; TOS-PHASER FIN FINISHING; YOUTUBE VIDEO
CLICK; TOS-PHASER SIDE-RAIL FINISHING; YOUTUBE VIDEO
METAL PARTS; Prior to use, all Metal Parts MUST be cleaned to remove machine coolant residue. RESIDUE IS NOT VISIBLE AND DOES NOT FEEL OILY, BUT IT IS THERE! Use dish-washing detergent such as \"Dawn\" or \"Palmolive\" to insure a clean part.
Some Star Trek Prop History For Inquiring Minds:
Most of these Prop Makers and Technicians have passed-on.
Below are old-timer accounts of convention conversations before conventions were really a fad. (all 2nd hand stories)
The persons quoted worked for; the studio.
Mr. Bob Stone was Star Trek\'s machinist and made all the metal prop parts for all three seasons of the show. Parts were made to order for each episode as in those times (the 1960’s) as machining was done by hand and there was no advantage to making short runs (and no studio funding either). Each episode had a specific budget. Speaking of budgets, Bob relied on his Star Trek friend Robert Archer (VP of Budgeting for the show) in getting a little leeway on the $ so he could do the best possible job. According to Bob there was no magic drum of Phaser Nozzles and every job was a mad-dash to meet the filming deadlines.
Because parts were made only to order, parts varied quite a bit. These variations can be seen in all the surviving examples of TOS hand props from Phaser to Communicators and Tricorders. Sometimes it was not that a new design was needed but rather that when one Wings it from a sketch, in a hurry using what is on-hand, you get an unintended-new-version of something (in the 1960’s the TV audience never could see that).
Robert Archer and Bob Stone worked closely together so when the show was cancelled suddenly in season three, Robert Archer ended up with a nice collection of hand props.
Richard Heimer made the molds for hand props. He also did all the casting and forming. This included; Vacuum form bucks, Fiberglass molds and, urethane molds. Again, according to him most work is done in the normal Hollywood maddening rush. He shared with his convention friends that there were many molds made from molds when the production schedule demanded this. He also shared that when the show ended he rescued the molds from being discarded by putting them in his garage.
James Ruggs (b. 1919) was the director of special effects for the show. He handled and repaired many of the props on-set. When the show was cancelled in season three he rescued many hand props and even some models from the scrap heap. Dick Ruben, Prop & Art Assistant on the show, got his Set-Used Klingon disruptor from James. Mr. Ruggs held on to his rather large Star Trek collection for many years. It is widely known that Greg Jein got his Holy-Grail Hero Phaser from James.
In closing a nod to Mr. Ruck, a prop technician, who reported that he repaired some hand props hundreds of times as they were often damaged during filming. He had also shared that the fiberglass Mid-Grade’s, and some other props often used basswood strips between the seams to establish uniform dimensions. Watch some YouTube Star Trek TOS bloopers to see what he was talking when it comes to repairs and hand props flying apart.
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