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Suspension Ball Joint Outside Inside Tie Rod Fits 94-97 Dodge Ram 1500 3500 for sale

Suspension Ball Joint Outside Inside Tie Rod Fits 94-97 Dodge Ram 1500 3500

This item has been shown 2 times.

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Suspension Ball Joint Outside Inside Tie Rod Fits 94-97 Dodge Ram 1500 3500:
$132

  • Applicable Models:
  • 1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 1500 All 4WD / 4x4 Models from 2/7/94
  • 1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 2500 All 4WD / 4x4 Models from 2/7/94
  • 1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 3500 All Models from replacement for a trouble-free installation.
  • Steel, iron or aluminum construction ensures durability.
  • Powder-coated or painted for long-lasting rust and corrosion Includes:
  • Suspension Ball Joint Outside Inside Tie Rod Fits 94-97 Dodge Ram 1500 3500

    Applicable Models:

    1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 1500 All 4WD / 4x4 Models from 2/7/94

    1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 2500 All 4WD / 4x4 Models from 2/7/94

    1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 3500 All Models from replacement for a trouble-free installation.

    Steel, iron or aluminum construction ensures durability.

    Powder-coated or painted for long-lasting rust and corrosion resistance.

    Package Includes:

    2x Part # Front Upper Ball Joints - K3134
    2x Part # Front Lower Ball Joints - K8195
    [Does Not Fit 4500# DANA 60 Axle Models]
    1x Part # Front Right Inner Tie Rod End @ Pitman Arm - ES3249
    1x Part # Front Left Inner Tie Rod End @ Connecting Tie Rod - DS1308
    1x Part # Front Right Outer Tie Rod End - DS1309
    1x Part # Front Left Outer Tie Rod End - ES3247
    2x Part # Front Adjusting Sleeves - ES2012
    1x Part # Front Track Bar - DS1413
    [Includes Larger Ball Stud for
    Great Load-Carrying Capability
    & Better Wear Resistance]

    1 Year Warranty

    Please check above compatibility list to make sure it fits your vehicle.

    Some of the parts we have grease fittings but other parts come factory sealed, this does not affect the performance or quality of the parts.

    Pictures may not contain the exact items that will be shipped, colors may be a little different, extra accessories & Parts may be added.

    Control Arm Bushing Replacement Reference:

    Control arms themselves do not generally wear out, but the control arm bushings and ball joints do, so you will likely need to remove them to service those components. Yet, some OEMs or parts suppliers do not sell bushings and ball joints separately, so you may have to purchase the entire control arm and replace it as a unit. Also, control arms can become bent or damaged as the result of a collision or driving through a deep pothole, so control arms do need to be inspected for damage. Many control arms are now made from forged or sintered aluminum, so you may need to measure for damage or check it on an alignment machine.


    Picture(A)
    1.Remove the coil spring and steering knuckle by following the steps in previous skill drills.
    2.Loosen the bolts holding the upper control arm in place. Note that there might be shim packs held in by the bolts. If so, tape them together in their packs, and label their positions.

    Picture(B)
    3.Remove the lower control arm by removing the bolts holding it in place. As you dismantle the system components, carry out a constant inspection of the parts being removed. Doing so will aid you when you need to order replacement parts. You should also mark mating parts with white paint to aid in reassembly.

    Picture(C)
    4.Inspect the upper and lower control arm for wear or damage. If the control arm bushings show signs of excessive wear or deterioration of the bushing material, they will have to be replaced.
    5.Replace the worn bushings in the upper and/or lower control arm. Replacement of control arm bushings can be performed two ways—with a hydraulic press with correctly sized press tools or with an air chisel. Be careful using an air chisel: Damage to the control arm can result, such as gouging the mounting surface of the bushing if you slip with the chisel.

    Picture(D)
    6.Press method: Place the control arm in a hydraulic press supported so the bushing is level to the press head. Using the correct-sized adapter, press the bushing out.

    Picture(E)
    7.Using the press, install the new bushing into the control arm. Be careful to start the bushing in straight, or you could bend the control arm. Press it in until the flange bottoms out.

    Picture(F)
    8.Air chisel method: Install the control arm in a vise. Use an air chisel to work the bushing out. Be careful not to gouge the mating surface of the control arm.

    Picture(G)
    9.Using the air hammer, drive the new bushing into place, making sure it is fully seated.

    Ball Joint Preventive Maintenance:
    Some ball joints use zerk grease fittings, which allow for periodic lubrication of the moving ball and stationary socket inside the ball joint. Grease fittings can sometimes be found on other suspension components and need to be lubricated as part of a preventive maintenance program provided by the OEM.

    Loaded Upper Ball Joint Play Measurement:

    The most common problem in the suspension system is play, or looseness of the parts. Although many of the parts are designed with special connections that allow for movement to accommodate movement of the wheels, excessive play is actually a bad thing. Excessive play magnifies the feel of road imperfections and makes the steering less responsive to steering wheel input. Excessive play is potentially very damaging, as it causes wear on the connecting parts and tires. Naturally, any amount of play in a fixed part is problematic and is frequently a result of part failure. Remember, unwanted looseness in the suspension system can be extremely dangerous and should be corrected as soon as possible.

    Picture(A)
    1.Obtain a properly sized block of wood to fit between the upper control arm and the frame.
    2.Place the block of wood between the upper control arm and frame so that it is secure.

    Picture(B)
    3.Raise the vehicle by lifting the body, using the specified lift points, so that the tire is a few inches off the ground. Support the body with a jack stand.
    4.Place a dial indicator on the upper control arm and vertically against the steering knuckle.


    5.Place a pry bar under the tire, and pry it upward, watching the dial indicator reading as you pry and release. Record the total amount of movement in the joint, and compare to the OEM specifications.

    Picture(C)
    6.Rock the bottom of the tire in and out, watching for play in the lower ball joint, and compare to OEM specifications.

    Loaded Lower Ball Joint Play Measurement:

    1.Jack up the vehicle, place safety stands under the control arms, and look up the exact procedure in the online service information.
    2.Place a dial indicator on the lower control arm and vertically against the steering knuckle.

    3.Place a pry bar under the tire and pry it upward, watching the dial indicator reading as you pry and release. Record the total amount of movement in the joint, and compare to the OEM specifications.
    4.Rock the top of the tire in and out, watching for any play in the upper ball joint specifications.

    Tie Rod End Removing Guideline:
    Tie rods make the final connection between the steering linkage and the steering arms. The point of connection with the steering linkage is considered the inner tie-rod end, and the end that connects to the steering arm is considered the outer tie-rod end. Checkingtie rods is important in identifying steering problems because the ends are frequently damaged or worn. There are two basic types of tie-rod ends: spring loaded and preloaded. Each type has its own procedure for inspection and replacement of the ends. Replacement of tie-rod ends requires an alignment to be performed, or rapid tire wear will occur.

    Picture(A)

    1.Safely raise the vehicle on a lift.
    2.Inspect the rubber bellows for any signs of leaks, tears, or damage.

    3.With the vehicle raised, have an assistant turn the steering wheel to one side or the other and rock the steering wheel from side to side.
    4.On the side farthest out, squeeze the bellows until you make contact with the inner ball joint, and feel for any play in the inner tie-rod joint.
    5.Repeat this procedure for the other side.
    6.If play is found, replacement of the inner tie-rod ends will be necessary.

    Picture(B)

    7.Remove the front wheel for the side being replaced, and loosen the locknut on the tie-rod end.

    Picture(C)

    8.Remove the cotter pin and nut holding the outer tie-rod endto the steering arm, and separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle, using a tie-rod removal tool, the double hammer method, or a pickle fork.

    Picture(D)

    9.Count the number of turns to remove the outer tie-rod end from the threaded sleeve.

    Picture(E)

    10.Remove the spring clamp from the bellows boot end to the inner tie-rod shaft, and remove the crimp clamp from the bellows boot to the rack-and-pinion housing. A new crimp clamp will have to be used on replacement of the boot.

    Picture(F)

    11.Remove the bellows boot.

    12.Using an inner tie-rod tool and the specified wrench to hold the rack, loosen the inner tie rod from the rack, and remove the inner tie-rod end.

    Picture(G)

    13.Install the new inner tie rod in reverse order of removal, and verify that the play is gone.
    14.Perform alignment to reset toe after replacement is performed.

    15.Test drive to verify repair.

    Sway Bar Stabilizer Link Removing Guideline:

    The sway bar stabilizer components help prevent body roll when cornering. Although the stabilizer bar itself rarely gives any trouble, the rubber bushings on the bar and links wear out. This usually results in increased body roll as well as a clunking noise in the suspension. The stabilizer components should be checked whenever a vehicle is brought into the shop because of handling concerns or suspension-related noises.


    Picture(A)
    1.Safely raise the vehicle on a hoist, or use a jack and place safety stands under the frame.

    2.Remove the nut holding the stabilizer bar link.


    Picture(B)
    3.Remove the link by hand.

    Picture(C)
    4.Visually inspect the rubber link grommets for cracks, softness, brittleness, or wear. Repeat with the other link.


    Item SpecificsBrand :VAP-autopartsManufacturer Part Number :VAP81018801LInterchange Part Number :K3134T, K8195T,ES3249RT,DS1308T,DS1309, ES3247RT, ES2012S, DS1413Other Part Number :52037574, 52037575, 52037578, DS1308, 52037574, 52037579Placement on Vehicle :LeftIncluded Hardware :Mounting HardwareKit or Single Part :KitWarranty :1 YearCross Reference Part Number :1994 1995 1996 1997Kit Parts Included :Ball Joint,Inner Tie Rod,Outer Tie Rod,Adjusting Sleeve,Track BarFitment :For Dodge 1500 Dodge 2500 Dodge 3500Surface Finish :StandardUPC :Does not applySuperseded Part Number :K8195 x2 K3134 x2 ES2012 x2 ES3247 ES3249 DS1308Fitment Type :Direct ReplacementGreasable or Sealed :GreasableCustom Bundle :YesOE Spec or Performance/Custom :OE SpecPartslink-number :DS1309 DS1413 inner outer tie rod drag link endPackage Included :11 PcsPosition :Driver Passenger side upper lower ball joint
    Shipping WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov Proposition 65 requires businesses to provide warnings to Californians about significant exposures to chemicals that cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. (1).Warehouse is located in Los Angeles, California, where local pickup transaction is temporarily not available. (2).Shipping services only cover 48 states and Washington DC in US Continental, while most of the time Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, American Samoa, U.S. Virgin Islands, Northern Marianas, Guam are not deliverable. (3).USPS PO Box, APO Army Post Office, FPO Fleet Post Office addresses are not available. (4).Global Shipping Program is temporarily not available due to the reason for package dimensions. (5).We usually need a 1-2business day as handling time for packaging and shipping scheduling. Estimated delivery dates should be 5-8 business days after your payment is received. (6).Your auto parts sometimes might be shipped with two or more separated packages due to weight limitation, please keep patient with no Item Not Received claim or Return request filed until by all of your items are received. (7).Seller is required to purchase signature confirmation to be protected if a buyer reports an item not received or opens a payment dispute if the order has a total cost (including shipping costs and any taxes) of $750 or more.Return (1).Most of items support 30-Days money-back guarantee. (2).Refunds will be credited within 2 to 3 business days of receiving the return.

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    Applicable Models:

    1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 1500 All 4WD / 4x4 Models from 2/7/94

    1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 2500 All 4WD / 4x4 Models from 2/7/94

    1994 - 1997 DODGE RAM 3500 All Models from replacement for a trouble-free installation.

    Steel, iron or aluminum construction ensures durability.

    Powder-coated or painted for long-lasting rust and corrosion resistance.

    Package Includes:

    2x Part # Front Upper Ball Joints - K3134
    2x Part # Front Lower Ball Joints - K8195
    [Does Not Fit 4500# DANA 60 Axle Models]
    1x Part # Front Right Inner Tie Rod End @ Pitman Arm - ES3249
    1x Part # Front Left Inner Tie Rod End @ Connecting Tie Rod - DS1308
    1x Part # Front Right Outer Tie Rod End - DS1309
    1x Part # Front Left Outer Tie Rod End - ES3247
    2x Part # Front Adjusting Sleeves - ES2012
    1x Part # Front Track Bar - DS1413
    [Includes Larger Ball Stud for
    Great Load-Carrying Capability
    & Better Wear Resistance]

    1 Year Warranty

    Please check above compatibility list to make sure it fits your vehicle.

    Some of the parts we have grease fittings but other parts come factory sealed, this does not affect the performance or quality of the parts.

    Pictures may not contain the exact items that will be shipped, colors may be a little different, extra accessories & Parts may be added.

    Control Arm Bushing Replacement Reference:

    Control arms themselves do not generally wear out, but the control arm bushings and ball joints do, so you will likely need to remove them to service those components. Yet, some OEMs or parts suppliers do not sell bushings and ball joints separately, so you may have to purchase the entire control arm and replace it as a unit. Also, control arms can become bent or damaged as the result of a collision or driving through a deep pothole, so control arms do need to be inspected for damage. Many control arms are now made from forged or sintered aluminum, so you may need to measure for damage or check it on an alignment machine.


    Picture(A)
    1.Remove the coil spring and steering knuckle by following the steps in previous skill drills.
    2.Loosen the bolts holding the upper control arm in place. Note that there might be shim packs held in by the bolts. If so, tape them together in their packs, and label their positions.

    Picture(B)
    3.Remove the lower control arm by removing the bolts holding it in place. As you dismantle the system components, carry out a constant inspection of the parts being removed. Doing so will aid you when you need to order replacement parts. You should also mark mating parts with white paint to aid in reassembly.

    Picture(C)
    4.Inspect the upper and lower control arm for wear or damage. If the control arm bushings show signs of excessive wear or deterioration of the bushing material, they will have to be replaced.
    5.Replace the worn bushings in the upper and/or lower control arm. Replacement of control arm bushings can be performed two ways—with a hydraulic press with correctly sized press tools or with an air chisel. Be careful using an air chisel: Damage to the control arm can result, such as gouging the mounting surface of the bushing if you slip with the chisel.

    Picture(D)
    6.Press method: Place the control arm in a hydraulic press supported so the bushing is level to the press head. Using the correct-sized adapter, press the bushing out.

    Picture(E)
    7.Using the press, install the new bushing into the control arm. Be careful to start the bushing in straight, or you could bend the control arm. Press it in until the flange bottoms out.

    Picture(F)
    8.Air chisel method: Install the control arm in a vise. Use an air chisel to work the bushing out. Be careful not to gouge the mating surface of the control arm.

    Picture(G)
    9.Using the air hammer, drive the new bushing into place, making sure it is fully seated.

    Ball Joint Preventive Maintenance:
    Some ball joints use zerk grease fittings, which allow for periodic lubrication of the moving ball and stationary socket inside the ball joint. Grease fittings can sometimes be found on other suspension components and need to be lubricated as part of a preventive maintenance program provided by the OEM.

    Loaded Upper Ball Joint Play Measurement:

    The most common problem in the suspension system is play, or looseness of the parts. Although many of the parts are designed with special connections that allow for movement to accommodate movement of the wheels, excessive play is actually a bad thing. Excessive play magnifies the feel of road imperfections and makes the steering less responsive to steering wheel input. Excessive play is potentially very damaging, as it causes wear on the connecting parts and tires. Naturally, any amount of play in a fixed part is problematic and is frequently a result of part failure. Remember, unwanted looseness in the suspension system can be extremely dangerous and should be corrected as soon as possible.

    Picture(A)
    1.Obtain a properly sized block of wood to fit between the upper control arm and the frame.
    2.Place the block of wood between the upper control arm and frame so that it is secure.

    Picture(B)
    3.Raise the vehicle by lifting the body, using the specified lift points, so that the tire is a few inches off the ground. Support the body with a jack stand.
    4.Place a dial indicator on the upper control arm and vertically against the steering knuckle.


    5.Place a pry bar under the tire, and pry it upward, watching the dial indicator reading as you pry and release. Record the total amount of movement in the joint, and compare to the OEM specifications.

    Picture(C)
    6.Rock the bottom of the tire in and out, watching for play in the lower ball joint, and compare to OEM specifications.

    Loaded Lower Ball Joint Play Measurement:

    1.Jack up the vehicle, place safety stands under the control arms, and look up the exact procedure in the online service information.
    2.Place a dial indicator on the lower control arm and vertically against the steering knuckle.

    3.Place a pry bar under the tire and pry it upward, watching the dial indicator reading as you pry and release. Record the total amount of movement in the joint, and compare to the OEM specifications.
    4.Rock the top of the tire in and out, watching for any play in the upper ball joint specifications.

    Tie Rod End Removing Guideline:
    Tie rods make the final connection between the steering linkage and the steering arms. The point of connection with the steering linkage is considered the inner tie-rod end, and the end that connects to the steering arm is considered the outer tie-rod end. Checkingtie rods is important in identifying steering problems because the ends are frequently damaged or worn. There are two basic types of tie-rod ends: spring loaded and preloaded. Each type has its own procedure for inspection and replacement of the ends. Replacement of tie-rod ends requires an alignment to be performed, or rapid tire wear will occur.

    Picture(A)

    1.Safely raise the vehicle on a lift.
    2.Inspect the rubber bellows for any signs of leaks, tears, or damage.

    3.With the vehicle raised, have an assistant turn the steering wheel to one side or the other and rock the steering wheel from side to side.
    4.On the side farthest out, squeeze the bellows until you make contact with the inner ball joint, and feel for any play in the inner tie-rod joint.
    5.Repeat this procedure for the other side.
    6.If play is found, replacement of the inner tie-rod ends will be necessary.

    Picture(B)

    7.Remove the front wheel for the side being replaced, and loosen the locknut on the tie-rod end.

    Picture(C)

    8.Remove the cotter pin and nut holding the outer tie-rod endto the steering arm, and separate the tie-rod end from the knuckle, using a tie-rod removal tool, the double hammer method, or a pickle fork.

    Picture(D)

    9.Count the number of turns to remove the outer tie-rod end from the threaded sleeve.

    Picture(E)

    10.Remove the spring clamp from the bellows boot end to the inner tie-rod shaft, and remove the crimp clamp from the bellows boot to the rack-and-pinion housing. A new crimp clamp will have to be used on replacement of the boot.

    Picture(F)

    11.Remove the bellows boot.

    12.Using an inner tie-rod tool and the specified wrench to hold the rack, loosen the inner tie rod from the rack, and remove the inner tie-rod end.

    Picture(G)

    13.Install the new inner tie rod in reverse order of removal, and verify that the play is gone.
    14.Perform alignment to reset toe after replacement is performed.

    15.Test drive to verify repair.

    Sway Bar Stabilizer Link Removing Guideline:

    The sway bar stabilizer components help prevent body roll when cornering. Although the stabilizer bar itself rarely gives any trouble, the rubber bushings on the bar and links wear out. This usually results in increased body roll as well as a clunking noise in the suspension. The stabilizer components should be checked whenever a vehicle is brought into the shop because of handling concerns or suspension-related noises.


    Picture(A)
    1.Safely raise the vehicle on a hoist, or use a jack and place safety stands under the frame.

    2.Remove the nut holding the stabilizer bar link.


    Picture(B)
    3.Remove the link by hand.

    Picture(C)
    4.Visually inspect the rubber link grommets for cracks, softness, brittleness, or wear. Repeat with the other link.

    Item SpecificsBrand :VAP-autopartsManufacturer Part Number :VAP81018801LInterchange Part Number :K3134T, K8195T,ES3249RT,DS1308T,DS1309, ES3247RT, ES2012S, DS1413Other Part Number :52037574, 52037575, 52037578, DS1308, 52037574, 52037579Placement on Vehicle :LeftIncluded Hardware :Mounting HardwareKit or Single Part :KitWarranty :1 YearCross Reference Part Number :1994 1995 1996 1997Kit Parts Included :Ball Joint,Inner Tie Rod,Outer Tie Rod,Adjusting Sleeve,Track BarFitment :For Dodge 1500 Dodge 2500 Dodge 3500Surface Finish :StandardSuperseded Part Number :K8195 x2 K3134 x2 ES2012 x2 ES3247 ES3249 DS1308Fitment Type :Direct ReplacementGreasable or Sealed :GreasableCustom Bundle :YesOE Spec or Performance/Custom :OE SpecPartslink-number :DS1309 DS1413 inner outer tie rod drag link endPackage Included :11 PcsPosition :Driver Passenger side upper lower ball joint

    ShippingReturnDiscountSales TaxWarranty WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov Proposition 65 requires businesses to provide warnings to Californians about significant exposures to chemicals that cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. (1).Warehouse is located in Los Angeles, California, where local pickup transaction is temporarily not available. (2).Shipping services only cover 48 states and Washington DC in US Continental, while most of the time Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, American Samoa, U.S. Virgin Islands, Northern Marianas, Guam are not deliverable. (3).USPS PO Box, APO Army Post Office, FPO Fleet Post Office addresses are not available. (4).Global Shipping Program is temporarily not available due to the reason for package dimensions. (5).We usually need a 1-2business day as handling time for packaging and shipping scheduling. Estimated delivery dates should be 5-8 business days after your payment is received. (6).Your auto parts sometimes might be shipped with two or more separated packages due to weight limitation, please keep patient with no Item Not Received claim or Return request filed until by all of your items are received. (7).Seller is required to purchase signature confirmation to be protected if a buyer reports an item not received or opens a payment dispute if the order has a total cost (including shipping costs and any taxes) of $750 or more. (1).Most of items support 30-Days money-back guarantee. (2).Refunds will be credited within 2 to 3 business days of receiving the return.

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